We're in Gozo!

Sunday March 11 was absolutely gorgeous- blue sky and a high of 19C. We caught the 10:00 a.m. bus to the ferry terminal in Cirkewwa, at the northwest corner of Malta. It was about a 75 minute ride (fare only 1.50 euro). We caught the noon ferry to the island of Gozo, abut 25 minutes from Malta (one pays 4.65 euros on the return trip). We then took a local bus for 15 minutes from the Ferry Terminal in Mgarr Harbour to the Bus Terminal in Victoria, the capital of Gozo.

Victoria was formerly known as Rabat, but was renamed Victoria on the occasion of Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee on June 10,1887, at the request of the Bishop of Malta. Some older Gozitans still call it Rabat.

Gozo is the second largest island in the Maltese archipelago It is only 90 km south of Sicily. The population of Gozo is about 38,000 and the island is largely rural in character. It is a beautiful island with many hills topped by enormous churches. There are many coves for swimming and diving. The 19th century nonsense poet Edward Lear called it a "pomskizillious and gromphibberous" landscape.

Gozo has been inhabited since 5000 B.C. In July 1551, the Ottomans invaded Gozo and enslaved most of its 5000 inhabitants bringing them to Libya. The island was repopulated between 1565 and 1580 by people from mainland Malta, undertaken by the Knights of Malta. Gozo has been governed by the island of Malta except for a brief period of autonomy following an uprising against the French forces after Napoleon's conquest of Malta, between October 1798 and August 1801.

Coming into Victoria

A boat leaving as we were arriving

We are staying at the Casa Gemelli guesthouse just a short walk away from the Bus Terminal. The Guest House has nine rooms and just opened last year. Very large rooms and spotless. Breakfast is included.

Large room with small balcony

Large modern bathroom

View from our small balcony of the Cittadella

After we settled in, we headed off to the Cittadella. It is also known as Il Kastell in Maltese, is a small walled city just a short walk from the main part of town. The walls date back to the 15th century, but there had been earlier fortifications on the site.

Passing Independence Square

Map on the way up to the Cittadella

The Cittadella contains a number of small museums, a few stores, two restaurants and the Cathedral of the Assumption. It has undergone an amazing restoration, largely funded by the EU, that began in 2008 and was completed in 2016. There is excellent signage throughout and we were surprised how quiet and peaceful it was. It might be the off-season, but there were not many people there when we visited.

Walking up to the entrance of the Cittadella

No hands!

Entrance

The Cathedral of the Assumption, just inside the entrance, was built between 1697 and 1711 to replace a church destroyed by a 1693 earthquake (the earthquake took place in southern Italy, but caused damage in Gozo). The cathedral was designed by Lorenzo Gafa, who also designed St. Paul's Cathedral in Mdina, which we visited earlier this week.

Cathedral of the Assumption (closed on Sunday afternoon)

Courts of Justice very close to the Cathedral

The dolphin fountain is a replica of one from 1887 which commemorated the renaming of the city to Victoria (June 10, 1887) and the inauguration of the Gozo-Malta steamship service (June 13, 1885).

Dolphin Fountain

Narrow quiet streets of the Cittadella

Maria must live here- very small doors

We passed by an area where five old bells from the Cathedral are kept. They were all cast at the Ferreria, the foundry of the Knights of St. John in Valletta. They date from 1639 to 1739.

The Old Cathedral Bells

View from the Cittadella

We noted a sign down a small street for a museum. It turned out to be the Folklore Museum. For 3.50 euros each, we got a ticket to five small museums in the Cittadella. The ticket can be used for up to 30 days.

Narrow street with Folklore Museum

The museum is a lovely maze of stairs and rooms. The building dates to 1500 and houses a collection of farming, trade and other implements and crafts that gives an insight into life on Gozo.

Entrance and stairs in the Forklore Museum

Lace-making

Cotton on Gozo

Weaving

Alain under some fishing net

Moi aussi

There was a room with some beautiful ceramics made by Karmnu Sacco (1877-1965), the last known traditional potter in Gozo who produced earthenware, mostly for domestic use.

There were also some intricate clay sculptures of Gozitans working in various trades.

On the cotton gin

Knife grinder

It was time for some food. The guest house had recommended Ta Rikardu as had a local man we had chatted to in front of one of the buildings. He had told us to have a glass of wine from the owner's vineyard which he pointed out to us. He also said the cheese was wonderful and came from the owner's farm.

I took this picture later near the Cathedral indicating where the restaurant was located

Alain waiting for his food at Ta Rikardu (Ricardo's). A lovely spot for lunch.

We had the best home made ravioli I have ever had-- light and airy with goat/sheep cheese and a fabulous tomato sauce. We may have to come back here again.

Fabulous home made ravioli

We walked back down to the Cathedral and passed by a plaque commemorating Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip's 1992 visit to Gozo.

We then went to visit the small Old Prison. It had served as a jail from the late 1500s to 1904 and was often used to lock up hot-tempered Knights of St. John until they cooled off. Jean de la Valette even ended up here for a few months for beating up a lay person. His punishment included two years of service in Tripoli before he became Grand Master.

Looking up at the Old Prison

Hanging out with Alain in front of the Old Prison

A small cell

Graffiti on the prison walls

We then walked over to the Museum of Archeology. The museum is housed in a 17th century townhouse. Originally it functioned as a Town Hall where the Knights of St. John received distinguished guests. In 1960, it became the first public museum in Gozo displaying artifacts. In 1986 the collection was separated and it came to house the archaeological collection. It has been refurbished a number of times since 1960.

Outside of the Museum of Archeaology

Late Roman period- 3-6th century

A marble oscillum from the 1st century A.D.-- suspended as an ornament between two columns.
Mask used by male actors on the front.

Roman Imperial Period-- headless white marble statue of high quality -1st century A.D.

A female stone bust said to have been discovered at Ggantija Temples (not too far from Victoria)
(about 3000-4000 years old)

Looking down at the countryside

View from the top

View from the Cittadella-- on a clear day one can see Sicily

Lovely spring flowers

The exit form the Cittadella

We walked over to Pjazza San Gorg (St. George's Square) to get a coffee. The St. George's Basilica dominates the square. We had a coffee outside at Tepie's Coffee Bar.

St. George's Basilica (San Gorg)

Tepie's Coffee Bar

After a short rest at the apartment, we headed out for dinner at 8:00 at Maldonado Bistro, recommended by the Guest House. It was not far, but a bit hidden down a small street. Excellent food and ambiance and very good service. Mediterranean menu.

Inside-- restaurant was very large- apparently packed in the summer

Appetizer of Sicilian panelle (chickpea fritters), caponata, and an artichoke dip

"Those who Love to Eat are always the Best People"-- we can agree with that

I had the monkfish with spring vegetables and Alain had Persian chicken. All delicious and filling.