Visit to the Salt Pans and farewell to Gozo

Tuesday March 13 was a mix of sun and cloud, but it got clearer and warmer as the day went on.  High of 17C.  Both Alain and I have a bit of a suntan-- of course, we left the sunscreen in Valletta with most of our luggage when we took off for our two day adventure in Gozo.

We learned that the Government of Malta is aiming to make Gozo fully sustainable by 2020--an excellent goal.  The island has a long history of self-sufficiency and there are large investments in renewable energy and education.  There is also a commitment to protect the delicate coastal ecosystem.

After breakfast, we took a 10 minute bus to Marsalforn, a traditional fishing village on the northern coast.  It is Gozo's main summer holiday destination where many Gozitans and Maltese have holiday apartments.  Marsalforns's history dates back to Roman times and as recently as the 16th century, it was the most important port in Gozo.  To the west of Marsalforn is the bay of Qbajjar and then a bit further west the wonderful Salt Pans at Xwejini.  We had wanted to see the salt pans--the bus driver dropped us near the Objjar Promenade and we walked west of Marsalforn towards the salt pans.

Signage for Obajjar Promenade inaugurated 1993
The beginning of our walk toward a fort and huge boulder 
Old Fort on the promenade


Small salt pan we passed on way to larger complex


We turned a corner and saw a tour just leaving the salt pans, so we knew we were on the right track

Voila!  The salt pans!  The northern coast of Gozo was particularly suited to salt production, as its area of flat limestone could be cut into by hand.  Seawater runs into the shallow basins and then the sun dries it out and the salt is harvested.  The salt pans date from Roman times.  The Knights were in charge of salt harvesting in the past and fined anyone who produced salt without permission.  Small caverns were cut into the rock to store the salt.  Salt is still harvested by three families between May and September.  

Salt pans and the sea
Looking back on the huge boulder we saw on the way out
Keep out of the Salt Pans
Another view




















There is a salt shop just above the salt pans, where we bought a small packet of salt.

Salt shop near the salt pans
Salt seller and me
We walked back to Marsalforn where we had a coffee.  Most of the restaurants and apartments in the Bay and along the promenade were closed as it is still the off-season.  

Malsalforn Bay-- lots of summer apartments 
On the bus ride back to Victoria we saw the Tas-Salvatur statue, a statue of Jesus Christ, high on a hill overlooking Marsalforn.  It is a scaled-version of the statue in Rio de Janeiro.  A statue has stood on the hill since 1904, but the original was replaced in the 1970s, made of reinforced concrete so that it is more resistant to the elements.

I couldn't get a good photo so am relying on the internet for this one- the 98 m-high hill is known as
Tas-Salvatur (the Redeemer)
On our return to Victoria, we walked over to the Cittadella for a late lunch at Ta Rikardu, where we had eaten earlier in the week.  We shared a bottle of Lord Chambray craft beer.  Malta has branched out from its trademark Cisk beer to newer craft beers in recent years.
Alain with our Lord Chambray Golden Bay craft beer
Salad with sheep and goat cheese from the owner's farm
Best ravioli ever- very light dough and sauce awesome- filled with sheep and goat cheese from the owner's farm
The back of the label for our Lord Chambray beer-- "I would give all my fame for a  pot of ale"-  Shakespeare, Henry V
After our late lunch, we went back to the Guest House to pick up our luggage and then headed to the bus terminal to get the bus to the Ferry.  It only took 10 minutes to get to the Ferry and we were able to catch 3:45 p.m. boat.
Sitting on the Ferry waiting to leave-- lovely water, sky and small boats
Farewell to Gozo from the Ferry-- so many churches on the hills
Another church in the distance to the right of the previous picture
We got back to Valletta just before 6:00 p.m.  We were tired and headed to the apartment to unpack. We then went to the market and got some food for a light dinner.  We are glad that we have one more full day in Valletta--- which means we can take it easy.  We head off for the Amalfi coast very early Thursday morning.

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