Monday March 19 started with a bit of rain and then cleared for a few hours as we made our way from the apartment in Montepertuso to Positano by local bus at 10:50; then Sita Sud bus to Amalfi (left at 11:30), then a short wait for another bus to Ravello (about a 20 minute drive). We arrived in Ravello at 1:00 p.m. The high today was only about 11C and it cooled down to 9C by nightfall. Lots and lots of rain and cloud once we got to Ravello.
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| Waiting at the bus stop at Montepertuso |
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| Another view |
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| Poster near bus stop of the soccer game we took a photo of on Sunday |
The bus ride to Amalfi was spectacular. There was a window of sunny skies and the sea was a beautiful colour. While a bit tricky, I was able to get some good photos from the bus.
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| Driving on the Amalfi coast between Positano and Amalfi |
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| More houses in the hills |
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Another view
As we were whipping around another hairpin turn, we saw this sculpture overlooking the water. I was only able to get a partial photo. They are watching over the beautiful Amalfi coast
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| Lemon trees |
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| One of the torres (towers) as we got closer to Amalfi |
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| Just a minute away from the bus terminal in Amalfi |
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| Waiting for the bus from Amalfi to Ravello |
We are staying at Nonno Francesco Bed and Breakfast in Ravello. Andrea, the host, met us at the bus stop and walked with us to the B & B. Our luggage was taken in a little electric cart. Car access is limited in the town. Ravello sits high in the hills above Amalfi, almost 1150 feet above sea level. The full-time population is only around 2500. Ravello was founded in the 5th century.
Virginia Woolf, D.H. Lawrence and Richard Wagner all spent time in Ravello. Greta Garbo, Jacqueline Kennedy and Tennessee Williams all holidayed here. Today Ravello is known for its amazing gardens and fabulous views, the best in the world according to former resident Gore Vidal, who had bought property here in 1972 and in 1993 made Ravello his permanent residence. He sold his home in 2004, when it became to difficult to get around.
Ravello is host to a very well-known and extensive season of chamber music run by the Ravello Concert Society. The music starts next week (we're a bit too early) and runs until the end of October, followed by a more limited program in November and December. There is also the popular summertime Ravello Festival which features jazz, dance and other music.
Our room, called the Sinfonia room, is a corner room with views of the sea. There are two windows and a balcony surrounding the room.
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| Our room with a lovely tiled floor (I am writing this post from the small table in the corner ) |
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| Panoramic shot from our balcony--- unfortunately, the clouds were rolling in and rain was about to start |
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| View from our deck (I took this pic later in the afternoon) |
We got our umbrellas and headed out. It is only about a seven minute walk to the main square. We made a few stops along the way.
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| Path near us--- electric cart can use the right hand side |
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| House with lovely garden and cats near our B & B |
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| Pretty Ravello cat |
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| Archway on our path |
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| Another view |
We made a brief stop at Profumi della Costiera, a small limoncello factory. The limoncello is produced with local lemons; known as
sfumato amalfitano (lemons about double the size of standard lemons). There are no preservatives or colouring. We had a tasting and bought a small bottle shaped as a violin for a nightcap.
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| Profumi della Costiera |
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| Very small operation |
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| Alain playing the limoncello violin |
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| Babel wine bar was not open yet for the season |
There weren't very many stores on the way to the main square, but one store with clothes for women caught my eye. It was called Bottega d'ago and run by the designer Laura (she worked for Max Mara in Bologna for 10 years) and her husband, who is from Ravello. Very unique designs.
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| Inside of boutique |
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| Designer Laura and moi in my new lace blouse |
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| Outside of the boutique (taken later on Monday) |
We carried on to the main square. Our host had recommended Al San Domingo for coffee and treats. We checked it out, but were looking for a sandwich, which they didn't have. We will probably go back another day.
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| In business since 1929 |
The main square is Piazza Duomo. The cathedral (Duomo) was built is 1086 but has undergone various makeovers since that time. The facade is 16th century, but the central bronze door dates from 1179.
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| The Cathedral in the rain |
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| More views (they really are spectacular) |
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| Another arch |
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| Perhaps vineyards |
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| Alain thinks these may be kumquats |
We stopped for a panini and then went back to the B & B to rest. We took a few photos from our balcony just before sunset.
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| Lights going on in Ravello |
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| Just before sunset-- the sea looked fabulous |
We then headed out for dinner at about 7:45 p.m. There was a very brief respite from the rain.
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Night walk
We had dinner at Pizzeria Vittoria, a recommended restaurant near us. It was very buzzy for a Monday night, mainly filled with locals who all seemed to know each other.
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| Pizzeria Vittoria |
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| Two rooms with old photos- quite elegant |
We were brought a glass of Prosecco and a delicious anchovy amuse bouche.
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| Anchovy amuse bouche |
Alain and I shared an octopus with potatoes and tomato appetizer, and a delicious red snapper fillet with vegetables served in a wrapping for our main course.
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| Octopus appetizer |
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| Tricky to undo the snapper and vegetables |
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| Red Snapper and delicious vegetables-fresh tomatoes, potatoes and olives |
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| Panoramic of the restaurant |
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Cheers!
The wine was also very good and we finished with an excellent espresso.
Ravello is really the hidden treasure of the Amalfi Coast. An exceptional setting and well worth a visit..... now if only the weather was better. It is supposed to rain on and off for the rest of our stay here. However, there are gardens and Villas to explore...
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D.h. Lawrence, gore Vidal, and YOU. too bad about the rain, but off season makes you locals. Sounds marvellous.
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